After 30 years of working at the United Nations, Cesar Guedes decided to spend a couple of years living in this city with his family and luckily had the chance to experience Hanoi's glory vibe on the anniversary of its Liberation Day several times.

As he shared with The Hanoi Times, this city is “eclectic, with a unique and tasteful mélange of old, new, traditional, modern, colonial, and Soviet styles".

Cesar Guedes first came to Vietnam in 2017 and fell in love with this city. Photo: The Hanoi Times

Can you share your story with Hanoi?

My first visit to Vietnam was on a family holiday in December 2017. At that time, I was posted as Country Director of a United Nations agency in Pakistan. I was always intrigued by Vietnam´s history, culture, geography and the fortitude and resilience of its people.

Our visit started in Hanoi and ended in Ho Chi Minh City with intermediate trips to Halong Bay, Haiphong, Hue, Danang, Hoi An, Nha Trang, Mekong Delta and Vung Tau. Hanoi, being the first place we visited in the country, made a great positive impression on us from the start as we landed at the impeccable Noi Bai Airport.

I loved its colonial and traditional architecture in the city center and how modernity is gradually sprawling into other neighborhoods like Tay Ho and beyond. A unique feature the city has is the many lakes and bodies of water including the Red River, and how the city is developing neatly around them.

What we saw thereafter made my wife and me decide that we wanted to spend some time living in Vietnam.

A few years later, in 2021, my wife was selected for a position at the Canadian Embassy in Hanoi. At that time, I was in my last role with the United Nations as Country Director in Afghanistan. I retired in January 2022 after serving 30 years with the United Nations across four continents and joined my wife in Hanoi. I have spent almost three years in Vietnam, until our departure in August 2024 for Ottawa, Canada.

I was invited to become a visiting professor at Vietnam National University and also conducted sessions at the Foreign Trade University (FTU). My interest and admiration for Hanoi and Vietnam’s culture led me to visit almost all the city’s museums and explore various neighborhoods on my bicycle, as well as discover the countless amazing eateries and restaurants offering a wide variety of traditional food. All in all, my time in Hanoi has been the best ever, full of joy and excitement!

In what ways did you observe the city’s growth and development since your last visit or since you first arrived? How has Hanoi changed in your eyes over the years?

In January 2022 when I arrived in Hanoi, it was just by the end of the pandemic. There were still some restrictions in place and life was getting back to normalcy. Some public works where paused; but gradually construction restarted and then after a few months I noted a boom construction with new tastefully designed buildings of all sizes mushrooming in various sectors of the city. The speed of construction is such that the landscape keeps changing and it’s a sign of the pulse of continued progress in the city. Also important to notice the construction of the metro train and how this transportation system will alleviate the traffic in the city

Also, what has caused concerns to many of us was the very slow pace of renovation Xuan Dieu avenue. That street has enormous potential to be one of the most picturesque avenues in Hanoi, beside a nice small lake and with beautiful shops and cafes that have been affected by the slowness and long pauses of the works. Hope this is finished soon because it will make a big difference in the city, especially the expat community that pretty much live around the area.

Cesar Guedes has had the chance to be in Hanoi several times on the occasion of Liberation Day. Photo: The Hanoi Times

How can Hanoi balance between preserving its historical and cultural heritage and accommodating new growth and modernization?

Hanoi is eclectic with a unique and tasteful mélange of mixing old, new, traditional, modern, colonial, and soviet style.

I just love how the city is and the personality it irradiates to the visitors and dwellers. One must not forget that this city was a target of various bombardments during several wars and was always able to stand up strong and rebuilt from its ashes, like an exemplary phoenix.

It is admirable the repurposing of heritage buildings in Hanoi’s Old Quarter restored and reassigned into modern businesses like cafes, restaurants, and galleries. This not only preserves the historical architecture but also gives them a new life.

Alongside these historical structures, modern skyscrapers and contemporary buildings are rising, creating a frenetic and dynamic skyline. This juxtaposition highlights the city’s ongoing development while respecting its historical roots. This indeed gives a space for cultural integration where traditional oriental designs are often merged with modern architectural styles, creating unique structures that honor the past while embracing the future as one of Southeast Asia’s most vibrant capital cities.

Hanoi’s architectural landscape is a testament to its ability that pays homage to its rich history while adapting to contemporary needs. One of my favorite spots in the city where one can admire the old art, architecture and traditions is the Thanh Chuong Palace. This is one of the most tastefully crafted architectural jewels in the city displaying unique pieces of furniture, porcelain, paintings, sculptures and lacquered art in a pristine serene setting of gardens and ponds. I also love the Museum of Ethnography, the Vietnam Fine Arts Museum and the Temple of Literature.  

This year marks the 70th anniversary of Hanoi's Liberation Day. Photo: The Hanoi Times

Have you ever experienced the atmosphere in Hanoi during Liberation Day? If so, how was your experience?

For me, it was a wonderful experience to witness how Hanoians come together as one to celebrate this special occasion. I experienced the intense atmosphere of patriotism and joy for freedom and unity in both 2022 and 2023. The entire city was adorned with Vietnamese flags, and people in various neighborhoods took pride in decorating their streets and homes. My recent visit to Dien Bien Phu deepened my understanding of this chapter in Vietnam’s history, highlighting the resolve of the Vietnamese army and the full support of the nation in securing the country’s independence.

I was particularly impressed by the fireworks display. Living in Tay Ho, I enjoyed the reflection of those fireworks in the calm waters of West Lake—truly something special. Walking around Hoan Kiem Lake on Liberation Day, with commemorative exhibits and stalls showcasing various local products and sights, was a unique experience for me.

How does participating the Liberation Day celebrations affect your view and understanding of Hanoi?

Participating in the Liberation Day celebrations in Hanoi provided me with a deeper understanding of the city's identity and historical significance. I witnessed the festivities showcasing traditional music, dance, and costumes, reflecting the rich cultural heritage of Hanoi.

This immersion in local traditions helps one to appreciate the city's cultural depth and diversity, bringing together people from all walks of life, fostering a sense of unity and community. This collective spirit is a core aspect of Hanoi's identity, emphasizing the importance of solidarity and resilience.

Experiencing these celebrations also provided me with a holistic view of Hanoi, making its historical significance and cultural identity more tangible and meaningful. Last year (2023) I went to the Thang Long Citadel and the Flag Tower on the observance of the 69th anniversary of liberation day. These locations are historical landmarks of the city and were all dressed in red flags and banners with beautiful flower arrangements. I was impressed by the various exhibits taking place there and how much local Hanoians made an effort to proudly guide and explain to foreign visitors the context and content of the displays given the language barrier.  

Thank you for your sharing!